The Wandering Canuck's Blog: 2013

Canada's Great Divide Trail

Starting this next summer (2014) I intend to start section hiking Canada's Great Divide Trail. I plan to break the 1200km trail into 8 sections and hope to complete the whole the trail by 2021, the year prior to turning 50.

This next year, the first section will be a 158.3 km jaunt, over 8 days. This section will cover from the Canada / US boarder along the Waterton Lakes to the town of Coleman.

The Great Divide Trail, or GDT, is a wilderness hiking trail in the Canadian Rockies. The trail closely follows the Great Divide between Alberta and British Columbia, crossing the divide no fewer than 30 times. It begins in Waterton Lakes National Park at the Canada-US border (where it connects with the Continental Divide Trail) and ends in Kakwa Provincial Park north of Jasper National Park.

The route south of Palliser Pass was originally mapped in 1974 by a group of 6 people funded by an Opportunities for Youth Grant. This group included Mary Jane Cox, Jenny Feick, Chris Hart, Dave Higgins, Cliff White, and Dave Zevick. White was the project coordinator and used the data from the project as the basis of an undergraduate thesis.

The Friends of the Great Divide Trail are dedicated to maintaining the original 100 km-long section of the GDT running through unprotected Alberta Crown Forest Reserve lands, from North Fork Pass to Fording River Pass, that was constructed in the 1970s and 1980s.

The GDT is not officially recognized by Parks Canada and therefore is not signed and not always even an actual trail, sometimes merely a wilderness route. The GDT passes through five National Parks: Waterton Lakes, Banff, Kootenay, Yoho and Jasper; seven Provincial Parks: Akamina-Kishinena, Elk Lakes, Peter Lougheed, Height of the Rockies, Mount Assiniboine, Mount Robson and Kakwa; four wilderness areas: Beehive Natural Area, Kananaskis Country, White Goat Wilderness and Willmore Wilderness Area; and five forest districts: Castle, Bow/Crow, Cranbrook, Golden and Robson Valley.

From now till summer I will be familiarizing myself with the trail and preparing physically to take on this challenge. I will be posting my progress in preparation, as well as further details on the trail and blog about some of the equipment I plan to take with me on the trail.

I intend to hike the trail ultra light with the intention to keep the base weight of my pack below 12 lbs. I really enjoyed my experience hiking the West Coast Trail this way and look forward to carrying on with this form of hiking.

The following is a breakdown of the hike this summer (Section 1):

Day 1:
Water Shuttle from the town of Waterton to Boundary Bay.
Hike 13.7km Boundary Bay - Alderson Lake Campground

Day 2:
Hike 16.6 km Alderson Lake Campground - Akamina Creek Campground

Day 3:
Hike 24.8 km Akamina Creek Campgound - Lone Lake Campground

Day 4:
Hike 21.4 km Lone Lake Campground - Jutland Brook Campground

Day 5:
Hike 15.9 km Jutland Brook Campground - Random Camp on West Castle Rd.

Day 6:
Hike 12 km Random Camp on West Castle Rd. - Castle Mtn Ski Resort Campground

Day 7:
Hike 22.7 km Castle Mtn Ski Resort Campground - Lynx Creek Campground

Day 8:
Hike Linx Creek Campground - Coleman

Below is a map of the GDT in all it's glory:

A few details on the trail:

Length: 1200 km (746 mi)

Location: Alberta and British Columbia, Canada

Use: Hiking

Elevation:

Highest point: 2,590 m (8,500 ft)

Lowest point: Old Fort Point trailhead, 1,055 m (3,461 ft)

Trail difficulty: Strenuous

Months: July to September

Sights: Canadian Rockies, Waterton Lakes National Park, Banff National Park, Kootenay National Park, Yoho National Park, Jasper National Park, Kakwa Provincial Park and Protected Area,

The Story behind the trail

The Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht and Pachendaht First Nations have always lived along Vancouver Island's west coast. These nations used trail and paddling routes for trade and travel long before foreign sailing ships reached this region over 200 year ago. Over the century following contact sailors brought the beginning of a changing world to the First Nations. Trade increased, and many sailing ships met a tragic fate navigating in these unfamiliar and hazardous waters. Sailors soon referred to this coastline as the "Graveyard of the Pacific".

Between 1888 and 1890 the government erected a telegraph line along the coastline. The line was an attempt to establish communications between the west coast villages, the newly established Cape Beale and Carmanah lighthouses, and larger communities in hopes of saving mariner lives.

However, after the wreck of the Valencia in 1906, with the loss of 133 lives, the public demanded the government do more to help mariners along this coastline. In response the government built Pachena Lighthouse, established lifesaving stations and improved the telegraph route to become a life saving trail for shipwreck victims and their rescuers. With improvements to technology the frequency of shipwrecks decreased and the life saving trail was gradually abandoned. In 1973 the trail became part of the newly established Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Today, hiking the West Coast Trail is about exploring Vancouver Island's temperate rain forest and rugged coastline, seeing the remnants of past stories and walking in the footsteps of shipwreck victims and the First Nation people that continue to call this area home.

Then . . .

I was first introduced to the West Coast Trail (WCT) in 1989, at the age of 17. My Venture Scout troop decided our summer adventure would be a trail none of us had heard of but we're told was exceptional hard. We hiked the trail in 4 hiking days with a Sabbath rest day in between which was quick but as I remember we were young and in great shape so we averaged 15 to 20 km days. This was in the days of external frame packs and heavy everything. I believe my pack was 65 lbs, 41% of my then total body weight.

Full of mishaps and challenges, day one started with dropping the poles to our tent into the ocean as we we're loading our gear into the ferry. This posed a shelter problem but we decided we had a couple small tarps and rope and how wet could it possibly get, thankfully we chose a week that was abnormally dry. One other discovery my cousin and I made was that hammocks were the only way to sleep when on the trail, we had purchased cheap $5 netted hammocks from Canadian Tire on a whim and thought we we're pretty smart when everyone else was sleeping on the wet sand.

In 2011, at 40, I decided it was time to rediscover the now much more popular WCT, so I challenged three friends and their wives to join me and my wife to hike the 75km trial. The 8 of us faced and conquered the trail but found it harder then expected, there we're warnings but we felt we we're able and may have underestimated what we we're in for. Our packs were lighter but not by much, they started out at around 35 - 40 lbs each including food and water, however after all the rain and wet they were more like 45 - 50 lbs.

We hiked the trail in 6 hard days and were thoroughly beaten by the end, as a reward for coming with me on this hike Kathy lost 6 of her 10 toe nails and feet that were completely covered in blisters, I'm not sure how long it will really take for her to forgive me, but these reports and others are probably why this last go was a solo trip.

And Now . . .

Solo

As stated in the title, this last trip was solo, everyone scheduled to go with me one by one backed out and I soon found myself looking at facing something I was completely committed to alone. Yes I was a little nervous but not enough to forgo my plans, I was determined and for those that know me I am not easily swayed once my mind is set.

Hiking alone was different and kinda lonely which may be the reason I finished the trail 2 days sooner then I planned, but I also found that alone I was not tied down to hiking another's pace and rather enjoyed pushing myself to hike the way I felt comfortable. As stated I finished the trail 2 days early, I planned for 7 days and finished in 5. Had day one been an earlier start, I'm convinced 4 days would be sufficient, maybe next time.

From Back Breaking Back Packer to Ultralite Hiker

After the last time I hiked the WCT I swore I'd never hike again with unneeded weight on my back. Over the last two years I have studied a relatively new movement in back packing called ultralite hiking. To be considered ultralite, the base weight of one's pack must be no more then 10 - 12 lbs. By base weight I mean everything other then consumables, consumables meaning food, water, fuel, and anything that will get lighter as you use it. This took me some time to accomplish but I did it at 12lbs for a 7 day hike. In future entries I may go into detail on some of the items I have found most useful as well as those that left me wanting. Now a low base weight is key but in order to be as light a possible its also important to keep your consumables as low as possible as well. I was able to keep my over all pack weight, base and consumables, below 24 lbs. It all worked out to 9 lbs food and fuel, 3 lbs water (1.5 litres), and 12lbs base. First day my pack was 24 lbs, last day my pack was just over 12.

Returning to The Trail with a Hammock

Over the last two years, I have searched and found that hammock camping has evolved into a real deal thing since 89', in fact there are quite a few companies that specialize in hammock camping equipment, more on that in another entry.

In preparation for my hike I had heard that because of the camp sights on the trail it was a challenge to find perfect places to hang a hammock. Here in Alberta we have perfect trees to hammock camp, however on the BC coast if there are trees on the beach they are quite large and can be hard to get your straps around. Because of these types of reports I was tempted not to take my hammock which for me would be sad because I have truly fell in love with sleeping in my hammocks while camping. After telling a few of my friends of my plan to camp in a tent they convinced me that I had to stay true to my hammock commitment, so I decided to go for it and if I couldn't find a good spot I could just sleep under my tarp and brave a sandy bed. As it turns out I was able to find a spot to hang every night. It should be noted that I was alone in my hanging and it worked out but I'm not sure it would be very easy if there were someone else competing for spots. Thankfully I had no competition, however I did have some jealous on lookers. As nice as sleeping on soft sand is, it's no cozy hammock.

2013

Day 1 (Victoria)

It all started with my flight to Victoria 7:15 am, which happened to take 2 hours longer then planned due to over cast skies, in fact our direct flight had to drop into Vancouver for a refill before we could eventually land in our desired location. After landing I caught the shuttle to my room at the Helm's Inn which was excellent and nicely located to the bus depot for the trail bus.

After spending a beautiful day in Victoria, BC, I was ready to get on the trail the next day.

Day 2 (Pachena - Darling River 14 kms)

6:15 am to catch the bus that takes me to the trail head in Pachena Bay (the north end of the trail) a 5 hour drive along the worst road ever made.

After the 5 hour nightmare an orientation is mandatory before you can start your hike, it is required to complete registration and to receive your permit. The orientation provides info on the current conditions of the trail and a run down of the rules for hiking in the park.

Pachena Trailhead

Pachena Bay's Beach Trailhead

Pachena Light House

As I approached my first campsite I ran in to some fog as I hiked the shelf at low tide. I had to wade Darling River before I could take off my pack and set up camp.

First night at Darling Campsite

Note that I was unable to find two trees so I was forced to work with a piece of driftwood that had been lodged into the sand.

Day 3 (Darling - Ditidaht luxury tent 16 kms)

Fresh bear prints on the beach heading the opposite direction, one big, one small.

Trail guardian cabin

These are posted at all the high spots as a safe place from any impending tsunami.

In many places the trail is overgrown and the vegetation has created these tunnels.

Derelict Grader

Derelict Donkey Engine

Mud, mud, mud

Klanawa River

Ladders to Tsusiat Falls

Tsusiat

Hole in the wall

Ditidat Luxury Tent, a great chance to dry all my soaking gear, which was great since it ended up being the wettest night current cost $60 / tent, being alone meant eating the whole cost.

Day 4 (Ditidaht luxury tent - Bonilla Creek 18 kms)

Nitinat Narrows

Lunch

The West Coast's version of a trail. Roots, roots, roots

Bridge over Cheewhat River

Yours truly hiking the low tide shelf

Carmanah Lighthouse

The famous $24 Chez Monique fully loaded burger, really at this point you'd pay anything for this.

happy hiker

Bonilla Creek, favorite campsite

Fellow hikers met along the way, 3 brothers also from Calgary. Mostly we stayed at the same sites but hiked at our own pace, which still meant solo for me. It was nice having some one to talk to in the evening, with out it, being over tired and alone can become quite depressing.

Fire really helps moral

Hammock found along the way, quite comfortable really.

Night 3, best location found for hammocking. I really like Bonilla.

Day 5 (Bonilla Creek - Camper Creek 14 kms)

Mud and roots oh ya still smiling

Suspension bridge over Logan Creek

Insane ladders leading from the bridge, this ladder is not only going up but it is slightly angled so you fill light you are going to fall off sideways.

Sand Stone Creek

Banana slug, average size is as big as your hand.

This is the trail, choose your own adventure

Camper Creek

Day 6 (Camper Creek - Gordon River Trailhead 13 kms)

For much of this part of the trail these logs are the trail

and some bridge a fall you wouldn't enjoy

10 kms to go

The old bridge, viewed from the new, you can't tell but the old bridge spans an incredible drop.

Stairs carved into these old logs, the height of this is approx. 8 foot.

5 kms to go, still smiling

Derelict donkey engine 2

The crack in the rock you see is the trail

1 km to go

The trail comes to an end

Ferry to official trailhead, still smiling.
The group behind me is a YMCA youth group that spent 18 days hiking what I did in five

Gordon River Trailhead

My lodging for the next two nights, the hiker huts located in Port Renfrew.

Day 7 Port Renfrew

Unfortunately when you come off the trail two days early unplanned you may get stock in the beautiful but relatively empty Port Renfrew. Her are some of the sights one can find while passing the time.